Hmmm. How basic are you going, Rob?? You've been doing this for a while, and might have forgotten how to do extracts!! (I think your "Booster" will be about right for a fair representation of the Mr Beer product.)
For the very most introductory brewing folks (I remember it well...): Here's a few comments regarding my progression as a brewer from the beginning, where one might start to see if it's at all interesting and to practice sanitation - can't say it enough: sanitation and cleanliness. Even if the final product is nothing like what you had in mind or want at all, if your sanitation is there, the product will at least be drinkable.
Even when I did strictly extract brews, I *still* put in a bit of bittering/flavor hops and a few 5 minute hops, generally an ounce full-boil somewhere between 30-60 minutes, and an ounce within the last five minutes. This was for hopped extracts; for unhopped syrups, I added more, of course. (For this West Coast Pale Ale, an easy choice would be to use those free Cascades from Free State via Jensen.)
For that can of West Coast pale, the beginner could add up to 2 to 5 lbs corn sugar for a bit more alcohol in a five-gallon batch. You have to add some hops to balance the added sugar! For a partial-boil, stove-top method, heat two+ gallons of water in a typical 16-quart stock pot (stainless steel or enamel with no scratches) while dissolving the syrup and sugar. You can use some of the hot water to get all of the goodies from the can; in fact, you can even cut both ends out and put the can into the hot water for a few minutes! (Or you could use two cans for a five-gallon batch instead of adding sugar/"Booster".)
[Optional: A step up in product quality, and IMO a *big* improvement, would be to use DME (dry malt extract) or LME (liquid malt extract) instead of sugar at the beginning of the boil. (Or you could use two cans for a five-gallon batch.) I've read that sugar won't affect the taste; in my experience, I have to disagree. I find that too much sugar yields cidery-to-vinegary off-flavors.]
[Optional: The next step up would be to do a "partial mash" or "mini-mash" by steeping some grains. For this example, I'd try a half-pound of carapils for head-retention and mouth-feel, and maybe a pound of crystal 40 or 60 for color and toffee/caramel flavor. Steep them in the water like a big tea-bag in cheese cloth or a nylon brew bag at about 150 degrees for thirty minutes. Remove the grains before increasing the heat and adding the syrup/DME/sugar and raising to a boil.]
Bring that to a boil, occasionally stirring the bottom of the kettle so that it does not scorch! Also: if you do not stir it once in a while as it nears a boil, the wort will rise up like an angry mob and attempt to flee the pot! Do NOT let this happen!! It is a huge and sticky inconvenient mess, and an occasional stir will prevent that - break the surface tension. Once boiling (assume you're going to boil it for a total of 60 minutes), add an ounce of hops - these will add bitterness to the beer. After 40 minutes, add another half-ounce of hops - these will add some flavor to the beer. Sometime within the last five minutes, add another half-ounce of hops - these will add aroma; IMO later is better. Some people say you need to pasteurize the hops - therefore boil five minutes. I disagree, as hops act as a preserving agent; therefore, late is OK with me. More than five minutes and the aromatics will be driven off.
[Optional: Another basic step-up, IMO: for this style use three ounces of hops! Or more!! (This is for a pre-hopped extract - even more if it's unhopped!) Spread that second ounce of hops out. For example, add the first ounce at the beginning of the boil for bitterness. Add 1/4-1/3 oz. after 15 minutes of boil, another 1/4-1/3 oz. after 30 minutes of boil, the rest after 45 minutes. I've read that anything over 20 minutes boils off the flavor components and merely wastes bitterness utilization. I disagree; IMO this gives a fuller flavor profile. Add the third ounce very near the end, as above.]
As soon as you turn off the heat, the idea is to cool the wort as quickly as possible. Cool the kettle in an ice-bath in the sink. [If you froze some pre-boiled water in sanitized containers the day before brew day, you could plunk that into the pot, too!] Put a sanitized colander on top of your fermenter bucket and pour the cooled wort through the colander. This will trap some of the hop matter and help to aerate the wort. Dilute to about 5.5 gallons aiming for a temperature of 60 to 65 degrees for this style. The beer will warm as it ferments, so a bit on the cool side is OK.
[Optional: At this point, you could add oxygen to the wort, and that will help the yeast take off fast, essential to overtake wild yeasts - for this style, anyway! Buggy people might disagree
But pouring the wort through the colander will splash things around and add O2 for the basic brewers.]
Pitch your yeast! Follow the instructions. If using a Wyeast smack-pack or a WL vial, the yeast should be cooler than the wort. If it hits cooler wort, it will be shocked and its virility will be reduced, similar to jumping into a cold shower.... If it hits warm liquid it will find tumescent nirvana. If using dry yeast, sprinkle it on top.
[Optional: pre-activate the dry yeast by hydrating it for an hour in sterile water in a covered, sanitized container while boiling the wort.]
[Optional: if using liquid yeast, grow a starter - a bigger pitch will help reduce chances of infection. See other threads for details.]
When fermentation is complete, there will be some trub at the bottom. By starting with 5.5 gallons, you'll be able to get a full 5 gallons of beer! Bottle or keg five gallons of yumminess! (Threads on carbonation, like building yeast starters, can be found elsewhere.)