How do you aerate your wort?

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Jdl973
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Re: How do you aerate your wort?

#16 Post by Jdl973 » Sun Sep 05, 2010 2:34 am

I have done it both ways, with the stone and O2 and just as simple as shaking the @#$% out of the carboy...both have made great beer. It is my opinion, a healthy yeast starter with a high cell count pitch is more important than high $$ aeration systems and pure O2.

With a good shaking (actually it is more of a "rocking" with a full 6 gal carboy), you should be able to get 4-8 PPM of O2 in solution. With a stone, you are looking at 14-20 ish PPM depending on the flow rate. Both will give the yeast what they need to get going. After you pump the O2 into the wort, the O2 in solution will come to a static equilibrium with atmospheric pressure. If you do not keep adding O2 under pressure, you will get about a 3-5 PPM equilibrium in solution due to pressure equalization very rapidly (just like soda will go flat very rapidly when left exposed to normal atmospheric pressure...the excess CO2 "jumps" out of solution...O2 will do the same thing). Most (if not all) beer yeast can do both anaerobic (without O2) and aerobic (with O2) metabolism, they just produce slightly different compounds under each condition.

I have done an experiment when growing yeast...constant stirring vs just letting it sit in the flask. I can tell you from empirical observations (I did not have my microscope at the time, so no cell counts were done) the constantly stirred (aerated) starters of the same yeast and yeast food, did much better in overall formation of yeast cake. Now was this due to the aeration or the fact the stirred yeast cells were kept in suspension and exposed constantly to food and nutrients instead of being allowed to settle to the bottom (being "lazy")...I don't know. I am leaning to the "they are in solution" theory and not being allowed to be lazy critters at the bottom of the flask. More research needed.

Last bit of empirical evidence. On several brewing sessions, while doing a 12 gallon batch of beer (6 gallon transferred to 2 carboys) I have forgotten to turn the O2 valve ON. I usually figure this out during the transfer to the second carboy ("hey, where are the bubbles at...Oh Crap!"). So the 2nd carboy gets O2 and the first one gets the @#$% shook out of it. The beer hits the same FG at the same time and there was no taste difference the couple of times this has happened. I have never had a stalled or slow fermentation since I started brewing.

If you are building a rig and have the $$ for an aeration system, they are cool to have and eliminate one more variable in the brewing process. It is not like most home brewers are doing 400 gallons batches at a time...Andy excluded...and are concerned about surface area diffusion of O2 in large static volumes...so the levels of O2 in a 5-10 gallon batch is not that critical (in my opinion).

The size and health of the yeast pitch, on the other hand, will have a huge affect on your final product.

Just my lengthy $0.02...ok, that was more like a $1.50 worth :D

Jason
BEFORE THERE WAS MATHEMATICS, RELIGION, PHILOSOPHY OR CULTURE...THERE WAS BEER.

In Primary:............. None (how sad is that?)
In Secondary:..........None...see above
On Tap: ..........Barley Wine from 2006, BGSA from 2006...

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Rob Martin
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Re: How do you aerate your wort?

#17 Post by Rob Martin » Sun Sep 05, 2010 9:57 am

What I've noticed is that we consistently ferment at the low end of attenuation for any specific yeast when the OG is over 1.060. Brews under 1.055 we usually hit the stated attenuation range.

For our English IPA with Wyeast 1099, it is rated at 68-72. We got a 67. OG was 1.063

Dead Guy clone, OG was 1.060. Pacman 1764 rated at 74-80. We got a 72.

From what I understand, I believe our issue is a combination of oxygen saturation first, pitch rate second.

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Rob Martin
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Re: How do you aerate your wort?

#18 Post by Rob Martin » Tue Oct 12, 2010 3:05 pm

I love eBay.

Bought this regulator shipped for $21.94, which seemed like a decent deal, and most I've talked to agreed.

Image

After I got it, I noticed I needed a barbed fitting for the tubing. After going to Home Depot, come to find out the threading is not standard NPT, nor compression, or any threading they have. So, I googled the part and come to find out that this is from Harbor Frieght, and they have them on sale for $29.99 (local pickup only)

http://www.harborfreight.com/oxygen-reg ... 94846.html
Image

I hate eBay. Just when you think you got something good, did your homework, etc., it is not that great. Praxair was able to get me the parts I needed for $1.60, so I saved a big $6.40, wow. But...that's better than the $40-$50 I was looking at.

I bought a used 20CF ('5 lb') Oxygen tank for $58 off of eBay. Praxair accepted the exchange and the fill was $15ish w/tax.

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Blktre
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Re: How do you aerate your wort?

#19 Post by Blktre » Tue Oct 12, 2010 3:11 pm

After you left I questioned myself about the thread type.
You still saved more than $6.40 because HF is a local pickup price only, time and fuel.
Overall you got a grand deal and will reap the benefits vs buying red cans.
Isn't DIY so much worth it!
Just call me Andy!

Lupulin Threshold Shift
lupulin threshold shift \lu·pu·lin thresh·old shift\ n
1. When a once extraordinarily hoppy beer now seems pedestrian.
2. The phenomenon a person has when craving more bitterness in beer.
3. The long-term exposure to extremely hoppy beers; if excessive or prolonged, a habitual dependence on hops will occur.
4. When a "Double IPA" just is not enough

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Jdl973
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Re: How do you aerate your wort?

#20 Post by Jdl973 » Tue Oct 12, 2010 9:41 pm

Remember you have a hookup that lives right down the road from HF :mrgreen:

You did well on the deal. Not great OMG deal of a lifetime...but very well.

Jason
BEFORE THERE WAS MATHEMATICS, RELIGION, PHILOSOPHY OR CULTURE...THERE WAS BEER.

In Primary:............. None (how sad is that?)
In Secondary:..........None...see above
On Tap: ..........Barley Wine from 2006, BGSA from 2006...

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