Lawrence Brewers Guild

The holidays have been generous and I find myself the proud owner of a new march pump. It's one of those off ebay that comes unwired and without mounting bracket. Question is about the polysulfone head assembly. I've seen many different mounting scenarios where the head has been removed and mounted outside of a box that protects the motor from getting wet i.e. Bill's pump-in-a-box. Since the pump should be mounted with oil ports on top, it puts my I/Os in a vertical configuration. Can I simply remove the head, rotate 90 degrees, and reassemble so my I/Os are horizontal? I feel this way will help maintain a decent prime. I plan to mount in a box so I'll have it taken apart anyway. Any other suggestions for a pump newbie? Thanks all. Hoppy Holidays!

First Lee, congrats on the pump, you'll find you can't live without it, probably much like the person that gave it to you.

Yup, you can change the orientation by simply moving the head. The body is just a motor and a spinning magnet. The pumping is separated in the head.

If you want some more detailed pics of what I did, just let me know and I can post a link. It ain't rocket surgery.

For any pump newbie, the most important things to remember would be

1. If using a ball valve to adjust flow (which I highly recommend), make sure the ball valve is mounted on the OUTFLOW of the pump head. Restricting outflow on a primed pump is okay, they are made to work this way. Restricting flow on the input side of the head is the fastest way to freeze and burn up a pump head.

2. Have an electrical switch of some kind for your pump. A simple power strip with a rocker switch will work just fine. If something goes awry: you lose prime, or a hose comes off while running-- you'll want to be able to turn that sucker off quickly. Trying to grab a hold of the cord and unplug it is slow and clumsy at best-- especially in a hot and wet environment!




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Jensen wrote:2. Have an electrical switch of some kind for your pump. A simple power strip with a rocker switch will work just fine. If something goes awry: you lose prime, or a hose comes off while running-- you'll want to be able to turn that sucker off quickly. Trying to grab a hold of the cord and unplug it is slow and clumsy at best-- especially in a hot and wet environment!

Very good advice Jeff.

Sean found some remote power switches that work awesome. This would be the right time of year to find them too. They are marketed as Christmas tree switches. You plug the adapter into the wall and plug whatever you want into the adapter (I use a fused power strip). Then hit the remote to turn the power on-off as needed from anywhere within the range of the signal.

I got me some Christmas clams and wanted to get myself a pump this year also, but the ebay seller I'd been considering for some time now (tate1560) who usually had them very reasonably priced seems to be out.

Is that the seller everyone else has been using, or is there someone else I should look at for a March 809-PL-HS?

Bill, I would like to see some more close-up photos and such of how you rigged your box up with the pump. I plan to do something similar. *IF* that's not too much of a pain to take apart, so we can see your mountings, etc. If it is, that's fine, I'll figure something out. Thanks either way.

Always mount the pump horizontal so the bearings don't wear out. Mounting vertically adds pressure to the motor bearings. Then position the head in any configuration you need.
I agree, always use a valve on the output side. And, always add a valve there regardless. You need to monitor output speed.
I have my pump hardwired into a all weather switch that is mounted to my rig. I then plug the rig into a GFI protected outlet....another must is to protect the circuit to protect yourself.

Thanks for all the input guys. I see quick disconnects in my near future...

Hey Lee,
Come by some day and we can review the logic of pumps, plumbing, and QD's
Give me a call befor you come over to make sure I'm home

I have to admit a two pint talk with chuck, while he shows you his schematics of liquid transfer, is well worth the time invested. No sense in re-inventing the wheel. Chuck has put a lot of thought into it and really has some good ideas. As a matter of fact I think Chuck should maybe do a seminar on his liquid moving thoughts sometime.

Matt wrote:Bill, I would like to see some more close-up photos and such of how you rigged your box up with the pump. I plan to do something similar. *IF* that's not too much of a pain to take apart, so we can see your mountings, etc. If it is, that's fine, I'll figure something out. Thanks either way.

Here is my pump torn apart. To get the magnet mounted on the outside of the box I had to remove a set screw. I took a pic of the set screw but it doesn't show up very well.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lbgbill/se ... 589069649/

The way I have the pump mounted is fine, but I should have mounted the pump higher up so I can have the pump head go either horizontal or vertical with no problem. With the current setup I have to have the box off the ground to allow for a vertical-mount pump head.

The box is really a temporary housing until I get my rig built.

That answered my questions nicely. Thanks for the pics.

Matt

Nice box Bill. How much of a hassle is it to prime it when you have encombered it in such a large enclosure. One of the reasions I like mine naked is it is easier to manipulate especially when there is air in the pumphead. Cavitation can kill impellers. PV=NRT The tell tale sound is the sound of BBs or pebbles in the head. Talk about foaming your wort. They also get warm and could use all the air circulation available. You do know there are two oiler points on the motor that need to be accessed every once and a while.

fergmeister wrote:Nice box Bill. How much of a hassle is it to prime it when you have encombered it in such a large enclosure. One of the reasons I like mine naked is it is easier to manipulate especially when there is air in the pumphead. Cavitation can kill impellers. PV=NRT The tell tale sound is the sound of BBs or pebbles in the head. Talk about foaming your wort. They also get warm and could use all the air circulation available. You do know there are two oiler points on the motor that need to be accessed every once and a while.

Thanks Chuck. I don't have problems priming the pump. Since I flush it with water prior to moving it into circulation, it gets primmed with water from my HLT. If it won't circulate, I just add water to the output side and fill the head with water, tap it a little to remove any bubbles, and let 'er rip.

As for air flow, I leave the lid up when I'm using it, and the box isn't air tight, so air flow should be fine, though it was a concern.
Good point on the oil ports. Mine are mounted on the top for easy access. I don't think you can make them out in the pics.

Can a March pump be mounted a couple of feet above where it is drawing if the pump is primed?
And will a closed valve on the output side hold the prime when moving a hose on the output side?

thank you

wlockwood wrote:Can a March pump be mounted a couple of feet above where it is drawing if the pump is primed?
And will a closed valve on the output side hold the prime when moving a hose on the output side?

thank you

How do you prime the pump if it's mounted above what you are drawing from? Yes to your second question.