Lawrence Brewers Guild

Is there any interest of having a electric element that would be easy to remove from the keggle. Been working on a element, tri clover, and cover box. I know pictures and as they say film at a eleven. The base ideal is to remove a clamp and the element and cover box could be removed.






Any interest???







God Bless
Dominus Vobiscum

Swagman


WoW now I'm a home brewer got something to live up too

This sounds really interesting.

Any concerns about heat? I doubt it, since they are used in boil kettles now. But will the element cause a more direct heat to the gasket?

Too bad you already welded up my kettles.

Gasket used is EPDM good to 350 degree's steam. I don't think there is going to be a problem with it.


God Bless
Dominus Vobiscum
Swagman

DO WANT

I've been wanting to go electric on my HLT for some time now. That looks like a beautiful way to go.

What might such an addition cost?

Matt

I was at Swagman's shop the other day...and held the "device" in my hand. Very cool and I wish he would of thought of this when he was building my rig...

Looks like a very cool way to be able to disconnect your HLT without a huge pain in the !@#.

Way to go Swag...

Jason

Matt wrote:I've been wanting to go electric on my HLT for some time now. That looks like a beautiful way to go.

What might such an addition cost?

Matt

You want to go electric? Stangbat has the sweetest electric rig Ive ever seen. Actually one of the sweetest rigs Ive ever seen. Its actually built for electric or propane.

Blktre wrote:

Matt wrote:I've been wanting to go electric on my HLT for some time now. That looks like a beautiful way to go.

What might such an addition cost?

Matt

You want to go electric? Stangbat has the sweetest electric rig Ive ever seen. Actually one of the sweetest rigs Ive ever seen. Its actually built for electric or propane.

I think he's pretty much given up on the natural gas side of it. It works great, but Eric said its just a ton easier with electric. Suppose it would work on when the power is out though.

Of course the downside for me is that I'd need 240 to power such a heating element, no? And 240 is kind of hard to come by in apartments -- there's usually just one 240 outlet for the washer & dryer and that's it.

So buy a 220-240 extension cord and don't run the clothes dryer when brewing; seems pretty straightforward.

Steve Brown wrote:So buy a 220-240 extension cord and don't run the clothes dryer when brewing; seems pretty straightforward.

Nope. You need a safety factor built into that. A 220 GFI is big money. And another ER shutdown switch at the rig for double security. Among other things.

Blktre wrote:

Steve Brown wrote:So buy a 220-240 extension cord and don't run the clothes dryer when brewing; seems pretty straightforward.

Nope. You need a safety factor built into that. A 220 GFI is big money. And another ER shutdown switch at the rig for double security. Among other things.

That. All electric at my place.

Martin it looks nice.

Andy, I just picked up a 50 Amp GFI 240V hot tub breaker for $68 at Home Depot (water proof box and breaker).

Matt, you could go with a 120V element, but usually they do not have the "umph" to keep up with the heat loss.

My rig can do 220V on HLT with a propane backup. When you go to 220V you will need a thermocoupler, an RSS and a PID to control the hole thing. Also it is a good thing to chassy ground your rig (as Andy said...safety first when playing with 220) and have it on a GFI, just in case you get one leg wet and it tries to go to ground...you do not what to be any part of that circuit .


Jason

Btw, this is a cool product. Especially for those dual fuel brewers.

Are you thinking 110kV or 220kV?

Not that the voltage would make difference in the decision to go electric, just curious.