Lawrence Brewers Guild

Some time ago Lee had Swagman build him a very cool tri-clover cap with a blow off and racking cane in the lid so he could use a full size keg as a fermentator. I thought this was a very cool thing and approached Swagman to build me one and put a coupler in my keg so I could easily drain the beer.

I get a call from Swagman asking if I minded if he made some "small modification". Jason, "Sure, knock yourself you". And knock me out he did.



Three couplers, one for a internal, rotatable racking cane, one for a drain and a third for a thermometer (need to get one yet).



An ingenious lid, which is cut from another keg, turned down on a lath...yes turned!! The locking mechanism is beautiful in its simplicity and function. Still need to paint the clamps...Swagman don't paint your stuff...LOL



A triclover cap with a blow off / CO2 line (for racking under CO2) with another S/S racking cane.



Inside is a drain which will sit above the turb, so samples can be drawn off. The racking can can rotate! Just loosen one of the triclove clamps, and the internal racking cane will rotate 360 degrees. pull off turb or yeast.





The top racking cane can be removed, a brass insert and cap can be placed on for fermentation.





It is unbelievable what this guy can do with a keg and steel! Thanks Swagman...I feel like a kid in an all Stainless Steel candy shop.

Jason

WOW Swag does great work as always. I'd love to see photos of how that rotating racking arm works, considering implementing one on a future conical project. Thanks for posting

Finally got around to brewing this weekend and did a Belgian Golden Strong Ale and thought the full size keg would be perfect to ferment this beer in. 12 gallon batch...







Working like a champ (with the help of 2 old paint cans). The thermometer is a great addition so I can lower the chest temp to keep the yeast happy. Will use the racking cane tomorrow to pull some of the turb off

Jason

I love this set up for the big batches, gets me thinking. Really nice work and great picts.

It has been great. Have a Belgian Strong Ale in there now, let me tell how nice it is having the internal temperature measured. Really helped keeping the fermentation temp regulated.

Thinking about added a thermowell and added a thermal probed hooked up to a Ranco and a water bed heater...so I can heat or cool the vessel.

Jason

Can you pressurize this for co2 racking? I noticed the lid seal uses tubing and where the ends meet looks like a leaker?

Silicone baby...not much you can't do with a dab of that stuff.

Yes, Tested it with about 20 PSI if air...held just fine.

With the racking cane on the bottom and the side discharge, can use gravity most of the time. Clear the head space with CO2 and let er rip.

J

Jdl973 wrote:Silicone baby...not much you can't do with a dab of that stuff.

Yes, Tested it with about 20 PSI if air...held just fine.

With the racking cane on the bottom and the side discharge, can use gravity most of the time. Clear the head space with CO2 and let er rip.

J

Gotcha. I'm gonna build two of these but I will be using 100% co2 racking. So I need to decide if I want to add a racking cane only or a racking arm only. A racking arm only will allow me to take gravity samples and then also I can rack the wort out of it by the use of co2 head pressure, just like my conical.
I started a design 6 yrs ago and never finished it. The sanky is inverted so yeast collection can be made from the valve neck. I still love this idea. I cut a hole in the bottom to fit a ball lock lid. It just doesn't seal very well because the bottom of the sanky has a slight dome. I could always chop the top off a ball lock and weld that onto the bottom. I may revisit that design or just start over on a fresh 1/2 barrel.
Thanks for some more ideas.

I am still looking to get my hands on a large sheet of gasket rubber. Cut out a ring about 1 inch smaller and 1 inch larger for a continuous gasket for the top of this one. Mine has a racking cane and a 1/2" drain plug. I will use CO2 to fill the head space and replace the head space volume when draining, but it will not have to be at any significant pressure as gravity is going to do most of the work. Will see how it goes because I just have tested a small volume with water and compressed air.

What Swagman did on the cover is put it on a lathe to get it true (talk about a brave man...).


Jason

I will probably use a bulk head similar to this one but use the keg top instead of acrylic. Then use the valve neck for a gas "in" and a thermowell drilled in the cap. Add a racking arm and i can co2 rack out the racking arm on a single plane.

Cool. Where can you get gasket material like that?

The nice thing about having the keg lid is a tri-clover clamp will fit and you can put any type of cap on...there is a guy in KC who will make any type of cap you like

Jason

Jdl973 wrote:Cool. Where can you get gasket material like that?

The nice thing about having the keg lid is a tri-clover clamp will fit and you can put any type of cap on...there is a guy in KC who will make any type of cap you like

Jason

Its a McMaster number somewhere in the archives. I will dig it up.
Yup, I dont need a clear lid to see whats going on. Ive seen plenty of ferments before.
As far as the bulkhead, trying to figure out a easy, sanitary way to spin on the bolts has got me thinking. But I do like the space savings it allows.

Blktre wrote:

Jdl973 wrote:Cool. Where can you get gasket material like that?

The nice thing about having the keg lid is a tri-clover clamp will fit and you can put any type of cap on...there is a guy in KC who will make any type of cap you like

Jason

Its a McMaster number somewhere in the archives. I will dig it up.
Yup, I dont need a clear lid to see whats going on. Ive seen plenty of ferments before.
As far as the bulkhead, trying to figure out a easy, sanitary way to spin on the bolts has got me thinking. But I do like the space savings it allows.

I'm using a SS camping plate for the lid. The rim of the keg already has holes in it that you can tap. I'm using a piece of steel channel that is bolted to the tapped holes to hold the plate. A junction box that was sitting around fits inbetween the channel and plate and seals well when it's tightened down. I'll look around and see if I saved the McMaster # for the gasket. I'd take a pic but it's in use now and you can't see the top in the fermenting chamber........

I put a cornie lid on the bottom so it would drain easy when cleaning - seals OK for me. I tried using a top from another keg for the lid and never got it to seal very good.

eta - that gasket receipt is long gone.......