My fermentation seems to have stopped after just one day...
What should I do?
I did not measure the gravity but I have a hydrometer.
stuck ferm
Moderator: Officers
SF
My plan is to move the wort (?) from the carboy to a plastic bucket secondary.
This secondary has a spout at the bottom so it will be easy to take out samples.
I used a munton's dry yeast which did take off and metabalized nicelt but for only one day. The beer (?) is very still now.
Is there a spell checker on this forum somewhere that I'm not seeing?
Thanx again
This secondary has a spout at the bottom so it will be easy to take out samples.
I used a munton's dry yeast which did take off and metabalized nicelt but for only one day. The beer (?) is very still now.
Is there a spell checker on this forum somewhere that I'm not seeing?
Thanx again
sf
The beer was made with a can of extract and a mini-mash which was boiled then transfered to a glass carboy.
Yeast was not proofed nor was the wort airated (both of which I have never done up to this point but both of which I do see the merits of).
It did take off in the house...then it went to the garage...Monday night..it wasb't that cold then.
I has had it back inside for several days now.
Yeast was not proofed nor was the wort airated (both of which I have never done up to this point but both of which I do see the merits of).
It did take off in the house...then it went to the garage...Monday night..it wasb't that cold then.
I has had it back inside for several days now.
http://www.iespell.com/ If you use Internet Explorer this is the best app to use for spell checking.
A few things to consider with your beer. First and foremost take a hydrometer reading! If the beer has dropped more than 20 points it could be all done! High temp ferments can happen quickly sometimes (a 5-8 degree swing, in either direction, from the manufacturer's recommendations for a particular strain can sometimes have a huge effect on fermentation performance). I assume you are seeing no airlock bubbler action as you indicator of no fermentation activity? Make sure it is sealed tight and no gases are escaping elsewhere. Most of all though, know where your beer is at, gravity-wise, before you move forward. If you did not take an original-gravity reading, you'll still know within a few points of where you started, by looking at what the extract manufacture says you'll get in gravity plus a point or two from the mini mash.
Three possible considerations of what happened if it is not done fermenting. One, the sudden change in temp from garage to house could shock the yeast and cause it to go in a dormant state. Two, moving an ale ferment early in the "topping" stage can cause the yeast to flock out early sometimes. A jostling of the yeast bed again to re-suspend the yeast, and maintaining the proper temp recommendations might be all that is needed to get it back up and running in a day or so. Three, the yeast that was pitched may not have been fresh\strong enough to get the job done.
If, after a high hydrometer reading, and another day of inactivity you could pitch some more yeast and your beer could finish out that way. No need to worry at this stage. There is already some alcohol and co2 produced from the earlier fermentation that you saw. The beer should beer fairly stable as long as you don't introduce too much oxygen at this point. Good luck, I bet it'll turn out just fine.
.
A few things to consider with your beer. First and foremost take a hydrometer reading! If the beer has dropped more than 20 points it could be all done! High temp ferments can happen quickly sometimes (a 5-8 degree swing, in either direction, from the manufacturer's recommendations for a particular strain can sometimes have a huge effect on fermentation performance). I assume you are seeing no airlock bubbler action as you indicator of no fermentation activity? Make sure it is sealed tight and no gases are escaping elsewhere. Most of all though, know where your beer is at, gravity-wise, before you move forward. If you did not take an original-gravity reading, you'll still know within a few points of where you started, by looking at what the extract manufacture says you'll get in gravity plus a point or two from the mini mash.
Three possible considerations of what happened if it is not done fermenting. One, the sudden change in temp from garage to house could shock the yeast and cause it to go in a dormant state. Two, moving an ale ferment early in the "topping" stage can cause the yeast to flock out early sometimes. A jostling of the yeast bed again to re-suspend the yeast, and maintaining the proper temp recommendations might be all that is needed to get it back up and running in a day or so. Three, the yeast that was pitched may not have been fresh\strong enough to get the job done.
If, after a high hydrometer reading, and another day of inactivity you could pitch some more yeast and your beer could finish out that way. No need to worry at this stage. There is already some alcohol and co2 produced from the earlier fermentation that you saw. The beer should beer fairly stable as long as you don't introduce too much oxygen at this point. Good luck, I bet it'll turn out just fine.
.
ferm
Excellent advice, greatly appreciated. It is so cool to be part of such a great group of people.
Please allow me to present some more information.
I hadn?t taken a reading because of sanitation considerations. But I will soon and I?ll post it.
The bubbler has stopped, the seal is good, and close visual of the wort reveals no visible metabolic activity.
For clarification: I moved the beer from inside the house to the garage on a very mild day. Temperature shock shouldn?t (IMO) have been an issue. It did cool off some what that night which may have been the problem.
Before my original post I did swirl the yeast bed if moderate vigor (I figured that there must still be a CO2 rich environment in the head space of the carboy). That did not help.
It funny that you mention that the beer will be fine because I am a nervous brewer.
Please allow me to present some more information.
I hadn?t taken a reading because of sanitation considerations. But I will soon and I?ll post it.
The bubbler has stopped, the seal is good, and close visual of the wort reveals no visible metabolic activity.
For clarification: I moved the beer from inside the house to the garage on a very mild day. Temperature shock shouldn?t (IMO) have been an issue. It did cool off some what that night which may have been the problem.
Before my original post I did swirl the yeast bed if moderate vigor (I figured that there must still be a CO2 rich environment in the head space of the carboy). That did not help.
It funny that you mention that the beer will be fine because I am a nervous brewer.
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fergmeister
- Brewmaster
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- Joined: Wed Feb 15, 2006 7:33 pm
- Location: Lawrence, KS
Nervous Brewer
We are always a little nervy until we have a few batches under our belts. Wort or wert (either spelling is OK) depending on gravity, temperature, yeast strain, and aeration can take a short time or long time to attenuate. In the old days before things like hydrometers came about, fermentation just happened (God is good) Look it up. Some beer was good and some not so. Good brewing skills involve paying attention to what we now know as good practices; sanitation, ingredients, and processes. If you wish to go about it the old way; boil,cool,aerate, pitch and wait. If you have enough yeast it'll be ok eventually. If your nerves are getting the best of you upgrade your processes and read a good book. Personal recommendation is HOW To Brew by John Palmer. Its on line reading for free and we have a copy in the LBG library. You can read the chapter on fermentation while you are waiting for the airlock to burp. Then you can rerad the rest and most of your questions you have now and in the future will be answered. This way you can brew and drink without an upset tummy.
To get you through this batch my recommendation is don't play with it too much. If you have a 68-73F room put it in there. Re-suspend the yeast with a swirl of the bucket without opening it. Let it go until Wednesday (read the chapter on conditioning in the secondary) then rack it to a secondary to drop out the suspended yeast (the yeast will drop out faster in the colder garage) Bottle (read this section too) wait 21 days and you'll have beer for Christmas when you can open the presents you asked for like a hydrometer, carboy, REFRACTOMETER (trust me on this one) and a new copy of How To Brew by John Palmer.
With the list of ingerdients you used you maybe completely attenuated already, one can of extract (4.5lbs) and a mini mash (3lbs) is low gravity wort = 1.040-1.048. Visual activity (or lack of) can be misleading. If you rethink your processes and try not to go too cheap on equipment you'll eliminate the guesswork and enjoy better beer. www.morebeer.com
The Fergmeister
To get you through this batch my recommendation is don't play with it too much. If you have a 68-73F room put it in there. Re-suspend the yeast with a swirl of the bucket without opening it. Let it go until Wednesday (read the chapter on conditioning in the secondary) then rack it to a secondary to drop out the suspended yeast (the yeast will drop out faster in the colder garage) Bottle (read this section too) wait 21 days and you'll have beer for Christmas when you can open the presents you asked for like a hydrometer, carboy, REFRACTOMETER (trust me on this one) and a new copy of How To Brew by John Palmer.
With the list of ingerdients you used you maybe completely attenuated already, one can of extract (4.5lbs) and a mini mash (3lbs) is low gravity wort = 1.040-1.048. Visual activity (or lack of) can be misleading. If you rethink your processes and try not to go too cheap on equipment you'll eliminate the guesswork and enjoy better beer. www.morebeer.com
The Fergmeister
Opportunity favors the prepared mind
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fergmeister
- Brewmaster
- Posts: 612
- Joined: Wed Feb 15, 2006 7:33 pm
- Location: Lawrence, KS